Siná, Horné skaly – Surprise, VII

Probably the most beautiful part of the Demänovská valley consisting of a limestone massif which stretches from the mouth of the valley to the half of the Siná mountain. Climbing is permitted only in the bottom part of the mountain, from May 1 to Febuary 28. The bottom part is divided into Horné and Dolné skaly. The exception is valid until 2022 but we believe that it will be extended. Climbing here is very unique and special. The rock is solid and has many faces, so the climbs here are technical and endurance demanding. Most of the holds are small. More than 100 routes vary in difficulty, ranging from VI+ to X+ UIAA, with most of them having the difficulty level of about VIII. It is, however, important to remember that the routes are half a degree more difficult than the routes in the other climbing areas. The whole massif faces south, so the rock is hot in summer. With the exception of the bottom cave, the whole area is ideal for climbing on cold days. Because of the features of the rock, the whole area best suits experienced climbers who will not regret visiting Siná.

Climbing permitted: 1.5. - 28. 2., the exception is valid until 2022

Info james.sk: List of climbing areas in Slovakia, restrictions, rocks wardens

Sector: Horné skaly

No. of routes: 70+

Difficulty: VI+ – X+ UIAA

Length of routes: 15 – 33! m

Sample routes: Prekvapenie, VII

Description: 12 glue-in stainless steel bolts + abseil chain.

Probably the most beautiful route in Horné skaly. The challenge is a boulder at the beginning of the route, under the first anchor. That is why it is better to fix the first anchor to the ground. The route then continues onto a slightly steep face with good holds, allowing you to move as if you were dancing.

Approach: 10 min.

Take the Demänovská dolina exit from the D1 highway and continue to the parking lot in front of the Demänovská Cave of Liberty (Demänovská jaskyňa slobody). Then follow the yellow footpath markers on a path leading to the top of Siná. Enter the valley and walk past a meandering creek. After about 200 metres leave the footpath to Siná and turn right to the footpath that will take you right beneath the rocks. From here you will see a row of rocks which you will reach easily in about 5 minutes.

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